Mat-maker, mat-maker, make me a mat

Color schemes, mat sizes, precision cuts, “acid-free” materials–preparing a mat for a picture may seem like a job best left to the pros, but fear not. All it takes is the right tools and a few simple steps. We’ll guide you through the measurements and methods that’ll rescue your artwork from the land of thumbtacks and help you preserve and display it for years to come. Your art, and your walls, will thank you.

Rule number one is to take it easy. Matting a picture involves some detailed work, and one minor mistake can mean starting the project over. Make sure your measurements are precise, and double-check anything you’re unsure about. If you stay organized and move one step at a time, you’ll get the results you want.

This 2torial will deal with matting “paper” art–photographs, drawings, prints, posters, watercolors and so on. If you have a work on canvas, you should contact your local frame shop.

Note: It’s a good idea to buy your frame before you start matting so you can cut the mat to fit the frame’s dimensions. Otherwise, the frame will need to be custom-made, or you’ll need to re-cut the mat to make it fit. To pick your frame, see 2torial #0906:

Gather your materials

When choosing a mat, you’ll want to consider thickness, material, color and size. Since you’ll be cutting the mat yourself, get the standard two-ply thickness, which is the thinnest and easiest to cut.

The mat you choose can also mean a lot to the preservation of the artwork. Paper is very sensitive to acidic elements, which can cause it to yellow and eventually disintegrate (think of an old newspaper). If long-term preservation is a concern, buy mat board that’s acid-free. It’s a little more expensive than standard mat board, but it might be worth your while in the long run.

Choosing mat board color is a matter of taste. Bring along the artwork if possible and hold it against the mat to see what looks best. If color matching is not your thing, consider these tips for a safe choice:

1. Pick a mat that accents the colors that draw the artwork together. For example, if the artwork has a background made up of dark greens, try a more muted shade of green.
2. Try a color value (lightness or darkness) that balances with the value of the artwork’s predominant colors.
3. Avoid bright colors that draw your eye away from the artwork.

Once you’ve decided on a mat, make sure you buy enough sheets to cut three or four pieces that will fit the length and width of the inside of your frame, where the glass rests. Two of these cut pieces is for the border and the backing of your artwork, and the rest is extra in case of mistakes.

While you’re at the art supply store, you can also buy your linen tape, sandpaper, and cutting tool. A utility or X-Acto knife will work fine for cutting the mat, but they do require a fair amount of dexterity to achieve a clean cut. With a mat cutter, you’re likely to get more professional results. They cost a bit more, but they’re easier to use. You can also use mat cutters to make a beveled (or angled) cut, which you can’t do with a knife.

Cut two mats to fit the frame

Before you start cutting, remember there’s not much room for error. A cut that’s 1/8 inch (3 mm) off or that has a ragged edge could create a big eyesore later on, so be precise.

1. Write down the height and width of the inside lip of the frame, where the glass rests (this is where your mat board will also rest), and the height and width of the artwork. These measurements need to be exact, to 1/16 inch (1.5 mm).
2. If you’re using a mat cutter, use a pencil to lightly mark the inside measurements of the frame on the back surface of the mat (this is where you’ll make your cuts). If you’re using a knife, make your marks (and cuts) on the front. With a knife, you may need to make multiple cuts, so you’ll need to see the visible edge to be sure it looks clean.
3. Lay the straight edge on the inside edge of your mark–the part of the mat board that will be used–so if the blade slips, the mistake will be on the discarded part. Make sure you’re holding the straight edge firmly against the mat board, then cut the entire line in one continuous movement. If you’re using a knife, hold the blade at a 90-degree angle from the mat. Keep steady pressure on the blade. Don’t start and stop. Don’t worry about cutting all the way through on the first try–you can make several strokes. Just be sure they’re all on the same line.
4. When you’re finished, you should have two pieces of the exact same size that will fit snugly (but without any bending or buckling) inside the frame. Check the edges and gently rub any ragged areas with fine sandpaper to smooth them out. Remember that the frame will cover the outer edges of the mats, so if you make a minor mistake, it might not be visible.

Cut one mat to frame the artwork

Now you have two pieces of mat board. One will provide the backing for your artwork (called a mounting board), and you can put this piece aside. The other will provide the border for the artwork. This one will need more cutting to create the window through which the art is seen.

• The window you cut from the mat board needs to be 3/8 inch (1 centimeter) smaller than your actual artwork. This is so the mat border can slightly overlap the edge of the artwork and hold it in place. Subtract 3/8 inch from the height and width of the artwork and you have your window size.
• To center the window area on the mat board, subtract the height of the window from the height of the mat board, divide the result in half, and you have the heights of the top and bottom borders of the mat. Do the same calculations with the widths of the window and the mat board, and you have the widths of the side borders.
• Mark off these borders using your straight edge and pencil. Again, mark the back of the mat if you’re using a mat cutter. If you’re using a knife, mark the front very lightly–you’ll have to erase afterward. Recheck the drawn window’s measurements, just in case.
• Cut out the window area the same way you first cut the mat board. Hold the straight edge firmly on the outside edge of the line–the border area–so any cutting mistakes will be on the discarded window. Be careful not to overcut. Make sure you start and end on the exact corner of the line. Since the window cuts will be visible, it’s important to get them right the first time.
• Once you’ve made the cuts and removed the window, touch up any ragged edges with the sandpaper and gently erase any pencil marks and smudges. Now you’re ready to move into the final stretch.

Hinge the artwork

Hinge the artwork? That’s right. Humidity changes can cause paper art to expand and contract. If your artwork is overly secured to the mounting board, it can buckle, even tear. To avoid this problem, it’s best to create a “hinge”–taping the top edge of the artwork onto the mounting board, and leaving the three other sides unattached and with room to move.

• Find where the artwork should be on the mounting board (the piece you put aside after Step 2) by laying the window mat over the mouting board. With your pencil, mark the horizontal and vertical corner lines of the window onto the mounting board behind it. Remove the window mat. Measure 3/8 inch (1 centimeter) outward from each corner line on the mounting board and mark these new corners. By adding 3/8 inch to the window marks, you’re getting the actual dimensions of the artwork, and you have the artwork’s mounting spot. (But just to be certain, position the artwork on the mounting board and lay the window mat on top to see if it all lines up.)

Once you’re sure of the artwork’s placement, it’s time to hinge. Cut a few one-inch (2.5 centimeters) pieces of linen tape (the number depends on the size of the artwork) and attach them to the top edge of the artwork. The edge of the tape should be attached no further down than 1/4 of an inch (6 mm) beyond the edge of the artwork. Otherwise, the tape might show past the edge of window mat. To make sure you apply the tape correctly, lay your straight edge across the top of the artwork so only 1/4 inch (6 mm) of the top edge is showing.

Attach the artwork so it fits into the marked area on the mounting board. Make sure the artwork is flat against the mounting board before securing the tape.

• Line up the top edge of the mounting board with the top edge of the window mat. The window mat should be face-down and the mounting board should be face-up. Attach one long piece of linen tape parallel across both butting edges (making another hinge). Now fold the cut mat over the mounting board and art, as if you’re closing a book.

When everything lines up securely, you can sit back and take pride in your perfectly matted artwork. Now all you have to do is frame it.